The MoonBoard - all you need to know
Our new MoonBoard is up and running! But what is it? How do you use it? Who is it for? All these questions and more answered below:
What's a MoonBoard?
The MoonBoard is a training device which replicates an original 40 degree training board used by British climber Ben Moon during the late 80s and early 90s at the legendary School Room in Sheffield.
The board is built to very specific dimensions and angles, and uses a custom set of climbing holds arranged in pre-defined positions. This means that climbers around the world can share problems with each other, since every MoonBoard setup is identical to the next.
The MoonBoard app allows you to select problems set by climbers around the world, including some famous names, and also to add your own climbs to the database. At the time of writing there are more than 8,500 problems logged on the app that use our MoonBoard setup, all of which can be tried at the touch of a button.
Who's it for?
The MoonBoard is aimed at intermediate to advanced climbers. It's pretty steep and a lot of the holds are hard to hold, with the easiest climbs possible coming in at around 6A+. Like any form of training, you should watch out for repetitive strain injuries and make sure you do a really good warm up before using it (and warm down after). If these grades sound a little hot for you, check out the Endurance Board we've just built next to it, which is much more accessible at lower grades.
How does the app work?
To use the MoonBoard app, first download it from your iOS or Android app store and set up an account. Alternatively you can visit www.moonboard.com and set up an account there.
Once on the app, you need to select the following setup:
- MoonBoard Masters 2017
- All hold sets (A, B, C, Original, Wood)
- 40 degree MoonBoard
You can then search for climbs to try by difficulty, by setter, or by name. You can sort by the most tried, or the highest rated. You can create lists of climbs to tick, and log the climbs you manage to get. You can even share lists to other users.
The MoonBoard website has lots of good tips for getting the most out of the app, check out the short videos in this link.
Connecting to the LED system
Once you select a climb to try, you can connect your phone to the MoonBoard and illuminate the holds that are available. Press the flashlight icon and the app will try to connect via Bluetooth. You need to make sure that Bluetooth and location services are enabled on your phone. If all goes well, your chosen climb should appear lit up on the board, with green LEDs for the start hold/s, red LEDs for the finish hold/s, and blue LEDs for the rest.
If you're having problems connecting to the board, try the following:
- push the blue reset button to the left of the board to clear the previous session
- turn your phone's Bluetooth off and then on again
- try www.moonboard.com for further help
Rules for MoonBoard problems
- All problems start two handed. If there is only one start hold you must start with matched hands.
- All problems start with both hands on the designated start hold or holds and finish on the designated finish hold or holds.
- The rules for which footholds are allowed are indicated in the problem details in the MoonBoard App. There are 4 possible options. 1) Feet follow hands. 2) Feet follow hands + Screw-on footholds. 3) Screw-ons only 4) Footless (kick-board footholds are allowed for the start.
- All kickboard footholds are allowed.
- All kick-board footholds are place slopey side facing up.
- All start holds must be on row 6 or lower.
- All problems finish on the top row of the MoonBoard either matched if there is only one finish hold or on separate holds if there are two finish holds. You must hold the finishing hold or holds in control for 2 seconds.
- You are permitted to use any part of the numbered hold.
- Matching and heel hooking is permitted.
- The grading system is either Font or V grades. You can change this in the App settings.
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